Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Simplicity Pattern Sale - Only $0.99!

Simplicity patterns are currently on sale for $0.99 at Hobby Lobby. 


They have an Elizabethan pattern (2621) that includes a corset, farthingale, chemise and bum roll.  This would be a great starter/cheater for our Elizabethan Clothing project.  We can make adjustments and fit it to the individual at the guild meeting!

Four our corsets: Cut the closest size to your measurements (go larger rather than smaller) out of patterning/scrap fabric and bring it with you.  We'll get the fit dialed in so that you can cut it out of your linen and start sewing your channels.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Project #1: Corset - Notes, Materials and Supplies

Next month we will begin making our Corsets, the first project in our series. I recommend each of you take a little time out to research what type of corset you would like to make.  There are many styles to choose from based on exact time and region.  If you like to wear clothing from multiple regions and timeframes, look for a corset style that will give you the most options or consider making more than one.

Materials for this project will vary based on the style of corset you choose and your preference of materials for its construction. For example, there are many things you can use as a stiffening agent besides spring steel:
  • Reeds – This material is breathable, lightweight and relatively inexpensive.  You can cut and dry your own, purchase from a basketry supply or sometimes find them in the floral departments of craft stores ( typically in "decorative bundles").  The exact price will vary on how you obtain them. 
    • Note:  Reeds can make a strong corset, however reeds can also break.  For this reason I highly recommend you make a realistic evaluation of your usage methods.  If you are one of those individuals who finds themselves stuffing their corset in the trunk of the car during the post work Friday drive to an event or leaving it damp under a pile of laundry the following Sunday, then this corset is not for you.
  • Cable / Duct Ties – 3/8" inch - 1/2" inch size will work best.  Why did I not think of this sooner?  A big shout out to CJ Sheppler for introducing me to this! They come in a variety of sizes and lengths and are just plain cheap.  You will need a lot of them, but once again, they are CHEAP!  They can be purchased locally at hardware stores and you only need a good pair of scissors to cut them.  They are light weight, washable (and by most online accounts even machine dryable on low), and durable.
  • Hemp cord / Jute rope:  1/8" inch diameter - You will need a large roll and a lot of patience sewing channels, but the results are fantastic.  This corset will not give you a conical a shape, making it beneficial for 16th century Italian or other regions requiring a less rigid form. It is also relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at craft stores and sometimes organic grocery stores.
More info about alternative boning (complete with images and pros/cons) from Sarah Lorraine / Sarah Wydville (SCA) are listed in this PDF on her blog.


Materials List:
2 yds - 58 inch or wider of 5-8 ounce linen  (2 ½  – 3 yds if  44 inch)
1 ½ - 2 yds outer fashion fabric (optional)
24-36 grommets (double this number if lacing front and back)
1 button busk (optional: for easy on/off - back of corset will lace)
1 wooden busk (if constructing English corset with back lace only)
Stiffening Agent/Boning Material of your choice
     (if ordering spring steel boning you will also need tipping fluid - NOT tool dip, actual tipping fluid)
2 spools color match thread

Suppliers:
Farthingales L.A. Corsets & Supplies.  Supplies, kits and patterns
Corsetmaking.com.  Supplies, kits, patterns and also carries reed for boning.
Fitting Room.  Supplies and custom patterns
Greenberg and Hammer.  While they have good supply prices, you have to download a catalog and phone in an order.  
V. I. Reed & Cane Inc.  Reed supplier.
The Country Seat, Inc.  Reed supplier.
The Basket Maker's Catalog.  Reed supplier.
Fabrics-Store.com.  Best linen prices I've found online.


Thursday, July 8, 2010

Fall and Spring Projects: Elizabethan Clothing from Underpinnings to Outer Garments

We had a wonderful planning session at the guild meeting this month.  After speaking with the participants and reaching a consensus, the following project schedule has been set:

  •  Project #1: Corsets. August/September - We will be patterning, constructing and finishing a corset.
  • Project#2: Hoops and Underpinnings. October/November - This segment will include hoops, a chemise/shirt and underwear.
  • December Break: No meeting this month due to holiday activities.
  • Project#3: Late 16th/Early17th Century Outer Garments. January/February -  Using our finished corset, underpinnings and hoops we will construct outerwear to complete our Elizabethan kit.
  • Project #4: Baronial Loaner Gear.  March/April/May - We will make complete adjustable outfits for a man and woman to be used as Baronial Loaner Gear in baronial colors.

Another exciting addition to Clothier's Guild: A Monthly Workshop!
By request, I will be hosting a once-a-month workshop to work on the current project as a group.  This date will be set at the guild meeting on the first Wednesday of each month.  Based on when most people are available during the given month, we will have a Saturday afternoon work day. You can bring your current guild project and work on it for several hours as a group.  This is a great way to work on your garment's fit, get help with any tricky bits and interact with your fellow guildies.


Materials lists will be published over the next week, so stay tuned for updates!

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

King's College was a success!

I had a wonderful time this past weekend in Houston teaching at King's College.  My class, "Alternative Buttons and Trims: The things you can't buy that take forever to make", covered different ways to make buttons and trims from a variety of materials.  We had to keep bringing in chairs to accommodate all the participants!  It was very exciting.  The classes seem get better and more diverse each time I go.  I encourage everyone to mark down the event on your calendars for next year.

I still have a few packets available which includes the printed handout, an additional handout on Smocking and a bag of button blanks (10 kinds!) with floss.  I will have them at the guild meeting next week if you are interested in purchasing a packet for $5.  I will also have a sign-up sheet if anyone would like to have the handouts in PDF format which I can then email you for free.  If you are unable to attend, feel free to contact me via email through the Bryn Gwlad website.

Looking forward to seeing everyone!

Image: Blue Dress Portrait of Maria di Cosimo, 1555-1557, by Alessandro Allori. Located in the Historical Art Museum, Vienna.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Stay tuned for monthly updates from the Bryn Gwlad clothier's Guild.  We meet on the first Wednesday of each month and will post pictures of ongoing and completed projects for use within the Society for Creative Anachronism.