Project #1: Corset - Notes, Materials and Supplies

Next month we will begin making our Corsets, the first project in our series. I recommend each of you take a little time out to research what type of corset you would like to make.  There are many styles to choose from based on exact time and region.  If you like to wear clothing from multiple regions and timeframes, look for a corset style that will give you the most options or consider making more than one.

Materials for this project will vary based on the style of corset you choose and your preference of materials for its construction. For example, there are many things you can use as a stiffening agent besides spring steel:

• Reeds – This material is breathable, lightweight and relatively inexpensive.  You can cut and dry your own, purchase from a basketry supply or sometimes find them in the floral departments of craft stores ( typically in "decorative bundles").  The exact price will vary on how you obtain them. 
• Note:  Reeds can make a strong corset, however reeds can also break.  For this reason I highly recommend you make a realistic evaluation of your usage methods.  If you are one of those individuals who finds themselves stuffing their corset in the trunk of the car during the post work Friday drive to an event or leaving it damp under a pile of laundry the following Sunday, then this corset is not for you.
• Cable / Duct Ties – 3/8" inch - 1/2" inch size will work best.  Why did I not think of this sooner?  A big shout out to CJ Sheppler for introducing me to this! They come in a variety of sizes and lengths and are just plain cheap.  You will need a lot of them, but once again, they are CHEAP!  They can be purchased locally at hardware stores and you only need a good pair of scissors to cut them.  They are light weight, washable (and by most online accounts even machine dryable on low), and durable.
• Hemp cord / Jute rope:  1/8" inch diameter - You will need a large roll and a lot of patience sewing channels, but the results are fantastic.  This corset will not give you a conical a shape, making it beneficial for 16th century Italian or other regions requiring a less rigid form. It is also relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at craft stores and sometimes organic grocery stores.

More info about alternative boning (complete with images and pros/cons) from Sarah Lorraine / Sarah Wydville (SCA) are listed in this PDF on her blog.

Materials List:

2 yds - 58 inch or wider of 5-8 ounce linen  (2 ½  – 3 yds if  44 inch)

1 ½ - 2 yds outer fashion fabric (optional)

24-36 grommets (double this number if lacing front and back)

1 button busk (optional: for easy on/off - back of corset will lace)

1 wooden busk (if constructing English corset with back lace only)

Stiffening Agent/Boning Material of your choice
     (if ordering spring steel boning you will also need tipping fluid - NOT tool dip, actual tipping fluid)

2 spools color match thread

Suppliers:

Farthingales L.A. Corsets & Supplies.  Supplies, kits and patterns

Corsetmaking.com.  Supplies, kits, patterns and also carries reed for boning.

Fitting Room.  Supplies and custom patterns

Greenberg and Hammer.  While they have good supply prices, you have to download a catalog and phone in an order.  

V. I. Reed & Cane Inc.  Reed supplier.

The Country Seat, Inc.  Reed supplier.

The Basket Maker's Catalog.  Reed supplier.

Fabrics-Store.com.  Best linen prices I've found online.